Exploring Medellín As A Part-Time Expat

Mountain Views, Friendly Locals, And $200-A-Month Rentals

Picture a scenic metropolis, surrounded by mountains, with easily accessed hiking trails, well-maintained parks, and abundant public spaces. People are welcoming, the culture is vibrant, and the cost of living is reasonable.

Sounds pretty good, doesn’t it?

It might surprise you to learn this is Medellín—Colombia’s second-largest city.
Forget about the version of it you’ve seen on Netflix. In recent decades, this city has undergone a massive transformation, going from the world’s most dangerous city to its most innovative…

Its past may be dark, but the future is bright for the City of Eternal Spring…

This is a city that draws you in. It has a special energy, which emanates from the fun-loving locals known as Paisas.

This is a place where people work hard during the day and play hard at night. Chiva party buses roll down the street, football fans take a few shots of aguardiente (the local firewater) while cheering on the local clubs, and people dress to impress for a night of dancing.

The city’s energy is infectious, with vibrant art, music, and culinary scenes. It’s easy to feel this and be a part of it, whether by checking out the street art, sitting down at a new restaurant, or signing up for salsa lessons.

No matter what your interests are, you’ll never be bored here. The city has several excellent museums and galleries, a few professional soccer teams, and plenty of performing arts venues, bars, and clubs. It bustles with activity on a nightly basis.

Here you can enjoy big-city amenities without the headaches. Medellín boasts an efficient and innovative public transportation network, including the only metro system in Colombia and cable cars that reach the hillside neighborhoods. It’s easy and cheap to get around, and free bikes are readily available.

While there’s no such thing as a perfect city, Medellín sure comes close in my book. I’ve had the pleasure of calling the city home on a few different stints as a digital nomad.

It’s a special place that I’m excited to introduce you to…

Medellín is the capital of Antioquia Department in northwest Colombia. It’s located in the Aburrá Valley and surrounded by the Andes Mountains. If you’re an avid hiker, you’ll love it here.

The city sits at an elevation of 4,905 feet (1,500 meters), putting it just below Denver on the list of highest cities in the world. While altitude sickness
isn’t as common here as it is in Bogotá, it may take some getting used to. The weather is spring-like, year round.

Medellín is made up of 16 districts, known locally as comunas. The most popular with expats are Poblado and Laureles.
It’s important to understand the estrato ranking system that is used here. All residential properties in the city are ranked from one to six, with six being the
most wealthy neighborhoods.

The majority of homes fall between estratos two to four. People who live in the higher estratos pay more for utilities to help subsidize the cost for those on the
lower end.

El Poblado has many places in estratos five to six and is home to the most expensive and luxurious options. Residences in Laureles are primarily in estrato three to four, so it’s a bit cheaper there.

One of the top reasons expats love Medellín is its affordability. A couple can live comfortably here on a budget of US$2,000 to US$2,500, including rent.

It’s easy to find short-term rentals on websites like Airbnb and Vrbo that are fully furnished in a desirable area, but expect to pay a premium.

My wife and I rented a place in Laureles on our first trip through a Facebook group. It was in a secure building, well-furnished, and covered all utilities, including high-speed internet. We paid around US$800 for the month.

On our next stay, we wanted to check out El Poblado and had a specific area in mind so I could walk to Spanish classes. We used Airbnb that time and paid
closer to US$850 after all the fees. We ended up extending another month with the owner directly and saved over US$100.

It’s fine to do something similar for your first month. If you want to stretch your pesos here, it’s key to find a long-term rental. Thankfully there are several Facebook groups where you can see what’s out there and contact owners or agents easily.

If you’re happy to sign a longer term rental agreement and live in a more local neighborhood (or even just a few blocks from the center of Poblado or Laureles), your rent could be as little as 1 to 2 million pesos (about US$200 to US$500) a month.

Medellín’s public transportation system is excellent. Paisas are proud of their Metro, which is the only subway system in Colombia.

There are two lines of the Metro: Line A runs from north to south from Niquía down to La Estrella; Line B goes from San Antonio in the center to San Javier to the west.

Also part of the public transit system are cable cars, elongated bus lines, a tramcar, and some 200 feeder buses that bring you to and from Metro stations.

If you’re moving to Medellín, you’ll want to get a Cívica card. These are free cards that you can use to ride the subway and bus. Not only do they save you
from waiting in line, but you get a discounted fare (2,255 pesos instead of 2,550 pesos).

Cívica cards also work to unlock the EnCicla bikes that can be found across the city. These are totally free. You just need to register and then can cruise all around Medellín.

A great time to rent a bike is Sunday afternoons when Avenida Poblado is closed to motor vehicles from 7 a.m. to 1 p.m. Pedestrians, cyclists, dog walkers, and skaters come out to enjoy some fresh air and exercise, and it’s a lot of fun.

Another major selling point of Medellín is the access to high-quality affordable medical care.

In a recent WHO study of 191 countries, Colombia ranked #22 in terms of quality of care, ahead of both Canada (30) and the States (37).

Many of the top hospitals in Latin America can be found in Colombia, including Pablo Tobón Uribe and San Vicente Fundación.

Medellín has become a bit of a medical tourism destination. From dental work to complicated surgeries, people are traveling here to receive medical attention. The difference in price is often so drastic that it’s worth it to buy round-trip flights and pay for accommodation just to have work done here.
Many short-term visitors travel to Medellín with basic travel insurance that covers serious emergencies.

My personal recommendation is Safety Wing as it covered my wife and my humanitarian flights back to the States when we got stuck here during the first
COVID-19 lockdown.

It’s easy and cheap enough to pay for most things out of pocket. Things like routine check-ups, generic prescription drugs, and dental work are such a bargain compared to prices up north.

A sizable expat community lives in Medellín. It’s a diverse group, spanning generations and nationalities. Many young people study Spanish at the universities as well as a fair number of retirees.

Many expats are American and Canadian, but people from all corners of the world are coming to the city these days. Many are digital nomads. Medellín has
become a mecca for remote workers.

It’s hard not to fall in love with the city, and the locals are welcoming and friendly…

The most popular areas to live for expats are El Poblado, Laureles, and Envigado, in that order. You’ll find plenty of English-speaking people and options for international food in these areas.

Spanish is the local language in Medellín, as it is across Colombia. While English is becoming more common, especially among the younger generation, it still pays to at least have a survival level of Spanish in Medellín.

I’ve traveled all over Latin America and taken Spanish classes in several places, and Medellín has been my favorite by far. I took lessons at Toucan in Poblado
twice and recommend them.

The beautiful surroundings, temperate weather, and reasonable cost of living are obvious draws, as are the friendly people and the excellent public transportation and health care. Medellín checks a lot of the boxes as far as a city goes.

Of course, as with any destination, there are some downsides to living here. While the city has come a long way in a short time, pickpockets and muggers are still a problem, and you always need to be vigilant. Wearing an expensive watch or flashing around a brand-new iPhone is basically asking to be robbed here.

As locals like to say, “No dar papaya,” which translates literally “Don’t give papaya.” It’s a colloquial expression that means don’t flaunt or show off.

Another thing to bear in mind is, people aren’t in a hurry here. While the laid-back pace of life is enjoyable, those used to a more customer service-oriented attitude may find it hard to adjust.

Things happen here, just not right away. You’ll hear the word ahorita a lot, meaning “right away,” but it usually means “later” or even “never.”

To really enjoy living here, though, you’ll need to go with the flow and adapt to the local way.

Most importantly, it helps to learn some Spanish and take an interest in the favorite pastimes of Paisas, notably dancing salsa and watching football. Doing so will have you welcomed in with open arms.

It’s amazing to see how far this city has come in a few short decades, and the future indeed looks bright for Medellín…

If you want to be a part of something special and come along for the ride, grab a seat on the cable car and head up to the mountains to gaze upon one of the most fascinating cities in the world.

It sure makes for an interesting place to call home.

Sincerely, 
Sasha Savinov
Contributor, Overseas Living Letter