Jacelyn Holmes is a part-time expat. For six to eight months per year, she lives in Nafplio, a seaside town in the south of mainland Greece. Originally from Canada, Jacelyn was attracted to Nafplio for its warm weather.
“Nafplio is for people who love the sun and like to be on the water while surrounded by nature. It’s also for lovers of art, like me,” Jacelyn says.
“It’s an attractive place to think about investing, relocating, or spending a vacation because it has the best of Greece all in one place. If you ask locals what their favorite place in their own country is, Nafplio is usually the answer.”
Nafplio is considered one of the most romantic cities in Greece because its look is so different from what most people expect. It doesn’t feature the white-washed buildings and curved blue roofs of Santorini and Mykonos.
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Instead, Nafplio boasts neoclassical mansions, narrow lanes, a fortress, and colorful, multi-story homes with slim balconies—all markings of Venetian influence. Its historic quarter is one of the three remaining Venetian old towns in Greece. Endlessly charming with its colorful buildings and tumbling bougainvillea, this neighborhood is where foreigners first flock.
At Home Abroad: Life In Greece
Jacelyn lives in the new downtown, where life is quieter and the tourist presence is less intense.
“The new downtown is modern and convenient, and you have the possibility of having views of the mountains, sea, and castle. I was lucky enough to get all three from my terrace. Most everything I could need, like a grocery store, gym, bakery, gas station, restaurants, and shops, is within a five-minute walk from my house.”
One of the best parts about basing herself in Greece, says Jacelyn, is the affordability of day-to-day living.
“I go to the farmers’ market on Wednesdays and Saturdays for all my fresh produce. I buy a whole week’s worth for 10 to 15 euros. When I don’t feel like cooking, I have endless options for unbelievable cuisine. We have international restaurants, but, when the Mediterranean food is so good, I often opt for local tavernas, which are everywhere.
“A typical meal ranges between 15 and 20 euros per person, including drinks. It’s refreshing to be able to do the things I enjoy most at a reasonable expense, unlike living in Toronto, where I was barely able to afford to go out to dinner once a week. All in all, the cost of living here averages between $1,000 and $2,000 a month, depending on your spending habits, and the quality of life is superb.”
Enhancing the opportunity to save by basing yourself in Nafplio, many of the cultural events are free. How else do residents keep themselves entertained?
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“In downtown Nafplio, you are within walking distance of various spots for entertainment. For those keen on sports, you can find outdoor gyms, a big track, tennis and basketball courts, a lane swimming pool, a soccer field, and indoor gyms.
“I love to walk and swim,” Jacely says. “I often do a 12-kilometer walk that starts at the sandy beach bay, Karathona, and leads you through the pines along a pathway that hugs the sea and the cliffs, winding its way to the old downtown. I stop for a swim at one of the secret little beaches along the way.
“Sailing and boating are huge parts of the lifestyle here, and we host International Yacht Week in May and many other events on the waterfront. If you love water activities, you will have many to participate in year-round.
“In the newly built Arts Center, Fougaro, you can enjoy classic movie nights, an international art gallery, a library fully dedicated to the arts (mostly in English), and the weekly jazz concerts within its inviting courtyard, and everything is free. They also host many activities and workshops to engage the community.”
One of Jacelyn’s favorite activities is island-hopping. Greece is home to 6,000 islands, although only 227 are inhabited. Just offshore from Nafplio, you find Hydra, Spetses, and Poros. Escaping to these small islands can provide a much-needed change of pace from the bustle of the mainland. What could be more serene than unwinding on a tranquil, sun-kissed island, surrounded by the twinkling blue waters of the Mediterranean Sea?
With all its appeal and its affordability, especially compared with the Mediterranean’s more brand-name cities, Nafplio’s popularity is on the rise.
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“More people are discovering Nafplio, and recently the expat community has been growing,” says Jacelyn. “I’ve met for drinks and lunch with different groups of expats and see them all at restaurants and bars, walking around town, at the local market, festivals, and community events. You’ll always be bumping into each other.
“At sporting events, such as tennis, you’ll see a lot of expats together. Specific expat gatherings occur; however, I think that a lot of the expats in Nafplio are like me and like to mingle with the locals. Most of my friends are Greek. We are invited into the community, slowly in some ways and quickly in others. It depends on who you are and what interests you have.
“I decided to rent instead of buying,” Jacelyn explains, “and found a lovely home that costs me 1,000 euros a month, including my utilities. I signed a one-year lease with agreeable terms.
“I worked with the real estate agency’s accountant to help draw up the deal in English and made sure it was correct for tax purposes as well.
“My place came fully furnished and is within walking distance of everything. I was happy to pay a little more for the convenience and the feeling of a turn-key situation. I handled everything online or over video calls. I pay through bank transfers every month and got all my utilities handled by my real estate agent.”
Unfortunately, administrative processes in Greece don’t usually go so smoothly. Bureaucracy can be one of the major downsides to moving overseas, and in Greece it’s particularly bad. For Jacelyn, the biggest challenge was getting Greek residency.
“I actually became the very first person in the world to obtain Greece’s digital nomad visa,” she says. “I was the guinea pig for the whole process. I even had to educate my lawyer and accountant on the information I had researched and learned. When I showed up to the immigration offices in Athens, the staff confidently told me that this visa didn’t exist.
“I wish I could tell you the process was easy, but it was anything but. Still, like they say, no pain, no gain. My perseverance prevailed, and I won the prize in the end. I not only became a resident, but I felt that I had earned the right to be called an honorary Greek. Today, I enjoy my dream lifestyle. I’m telling you about my frustrations so that you’re prepared—and don’t lose sight of your goal.”
The digital nomad visa isn’t the only option for those who want to live or invest in Greece. The country also offers the Greece Golden Visa and the Financially Independent Persons (FIP) visa, among others. Most people use the FIP visa to stay in Greece long-term. To qualify, you need to show that you can support yourself financially by proving that you receive at least 2,000 euros per month in income. This gets you a two-year residence permit that’s renewable.
Jacelyn says, “If someone had told me four years ago that I’d be spending part of every year in Greece, I wouldn’t have believed them.
“But, when you set your intentions and commit to them fully, anything is within your reach, even your wildest dreams.
“If you have your sights set on living and investing overseas, know that it’s possible and it’s worth the effort.”
Until next time,
Kathleen Peddicord
Founding Publisher, Overseas Opportunity Letter
P.S. This is an excerpt from my new book “At Home Abroad—Retire Big On Little”, the culmination of 40 years of experience covering this beat and of more than 26 years living overseas.
It is bigger, more in-depth, more comprehensive, and more timely than any other book on retiring overseas available anywhere and covers everything from moving overseas with pets, parents, and as a single, to residency, health insurance, shipping your stuff, and more.
We’re planning to make a limited number of copies available free to a select group of Live And Invest Overseas readers. Watch your in-box for details.
