Highland Havens

Panama… a diverse country with white-sand beaches on the Atlantic coast… a modern capital, Panama City… and, perhaps most intriguing of all, tropical rain forests (one of the most diverse biological ecosystems in the world) in the Chiriquí Highlands.

With hiking and bird-watching opportunities, waterfalls, hot springs, and farmers’ markets, these highlands offer a range of activities and lifestyles to choose from.

But with two top destinations to choose from (Volcán and Boquete), how should you go about picking one?

Let’s take a look at their differences…

Quiet Volcán

Most people do not visit or live in Volcán for the town itself, but for its impressive scenery and proximity to nature which makes it an attractive place for expats seeking a quiet, laid-back lifestyle. The area surrounding Volcán is one of the most picturesque areas in Panama.

Rent or buy a sprawling home with picture windows designed for the long, wide vistas of rolling hills shrouded in cloud mist.

The Great Outdoors

Volcán, the agricultural center of Panama, and the low rolling hills provide an ideal location to cultivate produce. Horse and dairy farms are popular, as well as traditional vegetable farms.

If farming isn’t for you, Volcán Barú National Park features a plethora of hiking trails that vary in difficulty and length. One is a six-hour trail to the summit of the volcano. You can descend to Boquete from the top if you choose (or return the way you went).

If you’re not a big hiker, don’t despair. Visit Las Lagunas de Volcán—two wetland lakes that sit at 4,000 feet— catch a fresh bass, head home, and watch the sun set into the cloud bank as you grill your freshly caught dinner.

Even if you don’t catch dinner, you’ll be able to enjoy a day full of bird-watching seeing as Panama is home to over 900 species. Mainly found at the lakes are rose-throated becards and pale-billed woodpeckers.

A sometimes overlooked yet incredible site seven miles south of Volcán is Cañón Macho de Monte formed by the Macho de Monte River, a popular day spot. The canyon itself is spectacular. The end of the canyon has a large waterfall where you can rappel down, and along the canyon itself there are areas for the more sedentary choice of relaxing in the cool water.

While here, remember to look up occasionally, as the canyon is home to many bird species. The most notable are the fiery-billed aracaris, riverside wrens, orange bellied trogons, and orange-collared manakins. If you do decide to visit Macho de Monte, try going at about 8am or 9am and be out by noon as it’s common for the current to get stronger after that time.

Volcán is a small community with basic amenities. However, the town boasts restaurants that range from familiar Mexican food to hole-in-the-wall mom and pop stands, to upscale dining with “American” fare.

Affordable hotels are available, but you can also rent private homes and apartments. Hotel Bambito Resort is a popular place to visit for a fresh trout (caught in the hotel’s lake) dinner.

Nightlife in Volcán, however, is fairly non-existent. This town is growing more and more as time passes. Don’t be surprised if in a couple of years, it’s almost unrecognizable.

Continue driving up from Volcán and you’ll reach the quaint community of Cerro Punta where the road is lined with small vendors selling a variety of local goods. Raspberry jam, strawberry wine, and sweets and medicinal herbs are just a few things available. Small nurseries and plant vendors also sell everything from cacti to roses.

If you’re an orchid lover, visit the renowned Finca Dracula—home to 119 out of 120 species of the Dracula Orchid. Be advised that it is not open year-round. Plan accordingly.

Exciting Boquete

The other side of Volcán Barú is a different world, amazing in its own right, dominated by the town of Boquete and bordered by the gorgeous Caldera River. Once upon a time, Boquete was a forgotten, small mountain town buried in a lush valley near Volcán Barú. Today it’s home to one of the largest expat communities in Chiriquí, with estimations claiming 20% of the population are expats.

Busy, Busy, Busy…

The culture of Boquete is as different as can be from the sleepy village of Volcán. The main street is teeming with people going about their business or simply poking around shops. Roads are filled with cars and buses, signs are written in English, and parts of the community are geared toward foreigners and expats. There’s even a farmers’ market on Tuesdays that sells a wide range of artisanal foods, crafts, and organic fruits and vegetables.

There’s no shortage of restaurants, bars, or places to shop. Actually, Boquete has the highest number of restaurants per capita in all of Panama. Many of these offer happy hour specials, and finding a hamburger is no great feat.

You can also find a large variety of housing options… wood cabins tucked in the hillside, sprawling family homes overlooking the mountains, and apartments downtown.

A main attraction in Boquete is hiking. Consider Volcán Barú or simply enjoy the two- to three-hour journey to the Lost Waterfalls, some of the most beautiful in Central America. On the way you’ll find a rock wall called Los Ladrillos where many people go rock climbing.

When locals want to relax, they head to the Caldera Hot Springs. There are four undeveloped mineral springs with temperatures ranging between 100°F and 115°F (38°C and 46°C). And, they are located on private property, but the entrance fee is only $3 (since my last visit). First-timers can take a guided tour that includes 4×4 rides for about $30.

Pay an extra fee and visit the petroglyphs located nearby, as well. If you want to enjoy the countryside but are not up for hiking, go horseback riding.

Enjoy A Cup Of Joe With Fellow Expats (And Locals)

No part of Boquete is complete without coffee. In any number of restaurants, expats meet for coffee and to catch up on local gossip. One treasured gift is the famous Geisha coffee. It is considered one of the most expensive coffees in the world and is only grown in Panama.

Whether you prefer the laid-back, quiet town of Volcán or a little more action in Boquete, you can enjoy the rain forests of Panama while indulging in a small piece of the Chiriquí Highlands.

Sincerely,

Rebecca Teeters

Contributor, Panama Letter