“I retired when I was forty-nine, thirteen years before I’d planned,” says Lee Harrison. “And it wasn’t because I’d struck it rich. Quite the opposite. I had an average income and moderate savings, less than most of my co-workers who stayed behind to continue working. I was able to retire at that age for two reasons—I retired abroad and I chose my country wisely.”
Lee wrapped up his career in the nuclear power industry in 2001 and retired to Cuenca, Ecuador, but he didn’t stay there. He went on to spend time in Uruguay, Brazil, and Colombia. Over the twenty-plus years of his retirement, Lee has spent time in nearly every country in Latin America.
The destination he ultimately chose as his home away from home is Mazatlán, a mid-sized city located halfway up Mexico’s Pacific Coast.
Of all the places in Latin America where Lee has spent time, what made him choose this one?
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“Mazatlán offers the best beachfront lifestyle you’ll find in Mexico, maybe the best you’ll find anywhere,” says Lee. “It boasts over ten miles of sandy beaches, which vary from bustling and energetic stretches conveniently near town to sections of isolated shoreline where you can get away from it all. The beaches are accessible and can be enjoyed from the wide boardwalk, which is five miles long.
“But what sets this city apart is its Spanish-colonial historic center. Having a colonial city on the beach is what drew me to Mazatlán, and over the past fifteen years the historic center has become a major source of pride for those who live here. Best of all, both the beach and colonial lifestyles offer countless options for fine dining, quiet coffee shops, energetic and friendly bars, as well as dynamic and active real estate markets.”
Lee is an expert in overseas property investment. He took it up post-retirement and today has a track record of success that spans two continents and two decades.
“I like the Mazatlán market because it offers a clear choice of lifestyles. You can go local or not. Resort areas aside, Mazatlán is a bona-fide city of almost a half-million people.
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“You can choose to be part of the American and Canadian community, speak mostly English, and ease your way into Mazatlán, aided by people who’ve come before you. Or you can live in an authentic Mexican environment, speak mostly Spanish, enjoy a lower cost of living, and immerse yourself in Mexico’s charming culture.
“Plus, properties are inexpensive compared to almost any beachfront world market. You’ll spend less in Mazatlán for seaside properties than you’ll spend in Cancún, Playa del Carmen, Puerto Vallarta, or even Tulum.”
It’s not just property prices that are cheaper in Mazatlán.
“One of the biggest benefits of living here is the low cost of living,” says Lee. “Basics aside, I’d allow about $2,000 to enjoy the best of what Mazatlán has to offer if you own your residence and about $2,400 if you don’t. Food prices can vary depending on the number of American and Canadian imported items you buy. Fortunately for expats, you can buy most anything in Mexico that you can in the States. This is nice if you have certain items that you can’t live without. What’s more, many American goods are made in Mexico, so you can get these items at a local price. Otherwise, imported items will be more expensive. You’ll save plenty by using local equivalents for American or Canadian brands.”
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The low cost of living also applies to Mazatlán’s entertainment options… and there are many ways to be entertained here.
Lee says, “There’s an active live music scene, which is a great way to enjoy time with your friends and neighbors. Classical music, theater, and art are a part of the local culture, generating activities that are popular with and well-attended by expats. And given Mazatlán’s tourist infrastructure, there are hundreds of great places to stay and eat.”
Most of the city’s cultural excitement centers around the Centro Histórico, the sprawling, well-preserved historic zone that’s full of colorful Spanish-colonial architecture. You’ll find an array of outdoor cafés and international restaurants, as well as theaters, art galleries, and shops.
“The Centro Histórico is my favorite sector in the city, and over the past twenty years, it has undergone a remarkable renaissance. The improvement has been dramatic, with another huge investment by the city in 2018 resulting in new cobblestone streets, stylish new street lighting, many building restorations, and a new boardwalk. Ground Zero for Centro’s renaissance is Plazuela Machado, which is now surrounded by a pleasant array of outdoor cafés and international restaurants. Just off the plaza is Teatro Ángela Peralta—a beautifully restored theater originally opened in 1874—which is open for concerts, tours, performances, and events. The area is also known for its huge number of art galleries and the popular art walk, which takes place every month during the winter.”
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Tourists and expats flock to the Centro Histórico because it’s walkable and rich in amenities, offering an unbeatable lifestyle. It’s also just a few blocks from the nearest beach, Olas Altas. Lee points out that this combination—Spanish-colonial town center and beach—is a rare one.
Olas Altas is a crescent-shaped, sandy cove about a quarter-mile in length. It offers some cafés, restaurants, and a couple of hotels, but the nicest beach in Mazatlán is the Malecón, whose beach runs for three uninterrupted miles and is busy in some sections but uncrowded and non-commercial in others. The Malecón features a five-mile boardwalk that was completely rebuilt in 2019. It’s a hub of activity, with people strolling, jogging, dog-walking, and biking along it.
The boardwalk is a great place for newcomers to meet new people, one reason Lee says Mazatlán is a great choice for someone looking to move to a place with a built-in expat community.
“Mazatlán has a large and diverse expat community, and you’ll find them to be friendly and welcoming,” says Lee. “Most of the expats are from Western Canada, with the United States not far behind. Virtually all the expats I’ve met are good folks who are respectful of the local people and culture. I can’t tell you with any authority how many expats there are. I’ve seen hundreds of Canadians and Americans turn out for a concert in my part of town on several occasions, and the expat community patronizes the nicest restaurants in town.”
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Because of the big expat populations and the steady tourism industry, English is widely spoken in Mazatlán, and plenty of expats get by without ever learning Spanish.
Lee says, “There is more English spoken in Mazatlán than anywhere else I’ve lived in Latin America over the past twenty-plus years. “My notary speaks fluent English, as does the furniture supplier, my developer, and most of my neighbors, as well as the staff in most restaurants, cafés, and bars. Many expats in Mazatlán get by with only English or on little Spanish. But beware: When you have a problem with your electric bill or the phone goes out or the Internet seems slow or your property taxes are too high, the person you’ll call most likely will not speak English.”
Despite its well-established expat community, Mazatlán remains firmly and authentically a Mexican city. It’s not overwhelmed by the presence of foreigners.
“That’s another thing I like about Mazatlán: It feels like Mexico,” Lee says. “Lots of places in Mexico have large, dominating expat communities that change the look and feel of the local environment. But in Mazatlán, you’ll see far more Mexican families on the street and boardwalk than you will expats from the north.”
For Americans and Canadians looking to move abroad, Mexico is by far the most popular choice. Mexico is easy and so familiar that you probably won’t even experience culture shock when you move here. It’s one of the few expat havens that you can drive to. Mazatlán lies about seven-hundred-and-twenty miles south of the Arizona border.
“It’s a simple drive on Highway 15D all the way, which takes me about fourteen hours to cover by car,” says Lee. “Just get on the interstate in Tucson, Arizona, and get off at the exit for Mazatlán. I suggest Ciudad Obregón as your overnight stopping point.”
Mazatlán is also easy to reach by plane, with a wide selection of direct flights to cities in the United States and Canada.
“If you want to be a pioneer or the only American in town, Mazatlán isn’t the place for you,” Lee says. “It was ‘discovered’ before most of us were born. But if you’d enjoy brilliant weather for most of the year, a friendly, welcoming expat community, a beautifully restored Spanish-colonial center, and miles of sandy beaches lined by one of the continent’s longest boardwalks, all within an easy distance from the States and Canada, then Mazatlán could well be right for you.”
Until next time,
Kathleen Peddicord
Founding Publisher, Overseas Opportunity Letter
P.S. This is an excerpt from my new book “At Home Abroad—Retire Big On Little”, the culmination of 40 years of experience covering this beat and of more than 26 years living overseas.
It is bigger, more in-depth, more comprehensive, and more timely than any other book on retiring overseas available anywhere.
