When I lived in California, I loved the springtime. The cherry and almond blossoms were in full bloom, and the heavy, damp tule fog would lift earlier in the morning as the days grew longer. But after living in Portugal for over six-and-a-half years, I’ve found that fall (outono) is my favorite time of year.
In the fall, we get our beaches back from the crowds of tourists that flock to the coast all summer long. During those peak months, we become like dispossessed tenants in our own neighborhoods. With the coming of autumn, locals sigh with relief. Kids are back in school, daily routines are re-established, and we finally reclaim our shores.
A few years ago, my husband Joch and I visited the Algarve during October. The weather was cooler but still incredibly pleasant—around 23°C to 25°C (73°F to 77°F)—a welcome break from the blazing summer months when it regularly reaches 24°C to 35°C (75°F to 95°F).
The water was still delightfully warm, and the tourist crowds had greatly diminished, even though most of the hotspots and activities remained open.
Joch and I were in heaven. Since we aren’t fans of large, noisy crowds, we discovered that visiting these iconic spots just outside the peak season offers a much more relaxing experience.
We took a boat tour to see schools of dolphins, visited the stunning Benagil Cave, and hugged the Algarve coast to admire its incredible limestone cliff formations.
Don’t get me wrong—there were still tourists, and we even met up with some friends visiting from the United Kingdom. But there were far fewer of them.
So, are you thinking about planning a visit to Portugal during the off-season? Go right ahead! In fact, one of the smartest things I’ve seen members of the Live And Invest Overseas Portugal Circle do is scout out the areas they are interested in moving to during these quieter months.
This is your chance to experience the authentic Portugal owned by the locals, rather than the “tourist” version co-opted by millions of visitors each summer.
So, what are some of the things that you can do during the fall in Portugal? Glad you asked. Up here in Northern Portugal you can visit Portugal’s only national park, Peneda-Gerês.
This 700 square kilometer park is a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve that hosts ancient oak forests, dramatic granite peaks, wild horses (garrano), and crystal-clear natural falls (cascatas) and swimming holes (poço, lagoas), and a 2,000-year-old Roman military road.
Late autumn (October–November) turns the ancient oak and chestnut forests into stunning shades of copper and gold—perfect crisp weather for hiking.
Take a river cruise… Ride a traditional boat (rabelo) or the scenic Linha do Douro train along the Douro River to see the hillsides turn golden-yellow… Participate in grape harvests… Visit local estates, known as quintas, in September and October to watch or help with grape picking (vindimas) and wine crushing.
In Central Portugal hike the Serra da Estrela, mainland Portugal’s highest mountain range as autumn paints the oak and chestnut forests in deep golds and oranges.
Visit the Convent of Christ in Tomar. Tour the magnificent headquarters of the Knights Templar in peace, enjoying uncrowded cloisters and rich Templar history… Celebrate São Martinho (St. Martin’s Day); join local autumn (magusto) festivals on November 11 to eat fire-roasted chestnuts paired with young regional wine or jeropiga (a sweet fortified grape drink)… Watch Giant Waves in Nazaré. Witness the world-famous colossal Atlantic surf swells crashing against the North Beach cliffs.
In the Alentejo district, you can join the grape harvest or visit local vineyards in Évora and Baixo Alentejo, where autumn brings wine celebrations and festivals like the Borba Wine Festival…
Explore the medieval, whitewashed walls of Mosaraz and Marvão without the heavy summer heat or crowds…
Stargaze at Lake Alqueva at the Observatório do Lago Alqueva for clear autumn night skies over Europe’s largest artificial lake…
In the Southern District of the Algarve go kayaking and partake of boating tours that still operate in October, and the water temperature is still 20°C to 21°C (67°F)…
Hike the Seven Hanging Valleys Trail or trek the rugged paths of the Costa Vicentina Natural Park in cooler, comfortable weather…
Surf the reliable Atlantic swells at western beaches like Praia do Amado or Arrifana… Attend the Sagres Birdwatching Festival and participate in guided boat tours, hikes, and workshops during this October annual event…
By visiting in the autumn, you get to experience the true rhythm, warmth, and community of the country before the rest of the world arrives. It’s the perfect way to test-drive your potential new life and fall in love with the real Portugal, just like we did.
With milder temperatures and fewer tourists autumn is a fine time to come visit. As Joch and I like to say, “A vida é boa!” (life is good).
Sincerely,
Jeff Woodruff
Portugal Circle Liaison
